Repair Shop

The repair shop is basically your garage, basement, or kitchen table.  Don't look for a 60,000 mile warranty on these things.  If you beat on them and take them to extremes (which is why you bought them in the first place), parts are going to wear and break.  Expect it.  Keep in mind that your risers are manufactured outside of the United States where the rest of the world uses the Metric System.  As a result, you will probably find that any part you need to replace or fabricate with local hardware store bought items will wind up being metric in size.  It should also be noted that Powerisers, being a mass-produced knock-off version of the Powerskip, are generally of lesser quality -- which means Powerisers are more likely to break.  This section will tell you what options you have to keep the bounce alive.

• HONKING SOUND
  Add some graphite spray or lubricating gel to where the spring attaches and to where it contacts the bushings.  Work it in and the honk should quiet down.

• BROKEN KNEE STRAP
  The original poweriser knee strap is secured to the knee loop with double rivets in three locations under the knee loop padding.  Unfortunately, this method of attachment nearly severs the strap in three locations, so there is a good chance the strap will eventually break.  REI carries a variety of straps that you can use to replace the original strap.  The new strap can simply be run around the inside face of the knee padding and held in place with some black plastic zip-ties.  You can buy the zip-ties at any hardware store. 
  
  But a better option than using a strap is to wrap your knee directly to the knee loop.  Check out Max's Poweriser Page for a good way to wrap your knee in nice and tight.  You will need approximately two 9 foot lengths (order 6 yards) of 1-1/4 inch or 1-1/2 inch webbing.  J Caroline Creative sells it online by the yard in a variety of colors.  To bind your knee to the knee loop, start the middle of a 9 foot length of webbing at the back of your knee.   Bring both ends around to the front, below the knee loop, and criss-cross them over the front of the knee loop.  Bring the two ends over the top of the knee loop and around to the back of your knee, criss-crossing them again.  Bring the two ends forward again, over the top of the knee loop and criss-cross them over the front of the knee loop again.  Keep repeating this pattern untill you have just enough to tie it off in front of or in back of your knee.  If you think you have more webbing than you need, just trim it to the length you want.  A lot of people use this system instead of the velcro strap.

• TORN KNEE LOOP PADDING
  Buy  some black foam pipe insulation (carried by Ace Hardware stores), cut to the lengths you need, slit them open, and place them around the metal knee loops.  Then, secure with some wrap tape or plastic zip-ties.

You can also replace the original knee loop padding with  a swimming noodle.  Choose your favorite color, cut to the needed length, remove the old padding, and slip the noodle onto the knee loop metal tubing and move it into position.   Note: Measure the length you need using the old knee padding.  (Credit PoweriserPages.com member "Hooterz" for this idea.)

• BROKEN FOOT STRAP
  The foot straps are pretty long, so you may have enough strap left to simply drill a new hole in the remaining length and re-attach it to the foot platform.  You can also replace the factory straps with snowboard bindings. 

• GETTING RID OF THE "CLACK"
  An annoying clacking noise develops when the upper bushing becomes deformed from prolong use.  Check out Lee's PoweriserMods website for his replacement bushing that incorporates bearings in the design.  (Availability may be limited these days.)  Others out there are working on their own bearing kits -- so surf the forums for discussions regarding possible replacements.   You can also look up a local machine shop in the Yellow Pages and ask them to make a new pair of bushings for you if you just want new originals.

• WORN OUT FOOT PADS
  Foot Pads look tough, but wear out.  They wear out more quickly when used on pavement - which is where you get the best bounce.  Before your foot pads get totally worn out, it is recommended that you put Tire Socks over them to protect the pads from further wear.  Some brands require the entire lower metal leg be replaced with the foot pad, but other brands are redesigning the foot pads so they alone can be more easily replaced.  
  
       -  PoweriZer instructional video on how to replace their rubber foot pad can be found here.
       -  Powerskip Sole Repair Kit can be found here.
  
  A very good instructional video on how to install tiresocks can be found here.

• BROKEN STABILIZER ROD
  It is rare, but we know of at least one instance where one of the stabilizer rods snapped.   In order to remove the broken rod, first remove the four hex bolts that hold and tighten the knee loop clamp in place.  The knee loop, knee loop clamp, and calf pad will then come off.  You will now be able to see the upper end of the broken rod and the nuts that hold it in place at the upper end.  Remove these nuts.  Then, remove the stabilizer rod adjusting nuts at the lower end of the rod where it connects to the foot platform. Put aside the black plastic tube that covered the original rod.  Go to Home Depot and purchase a threaded rod (size 10-32) along with nuts that will fit it.  (Your old nuts will not fit this new rod.)  Measure the rod up against your broken rod.  Then bend and cut to match the old rod's shape and size, slide the black cover tube on it, and put it back on your riser with the new nuts.  Assemble the two halves of the knee loop clamp, knee loop and calf pad -- tightening them in place with the four hex bolts.  NOTE: The calf pad is not symetrical, so you may accidently attach it upside down.  Refer to your other riser to see how to orient it correctly.

• CENTERING THE KNEE LOOP
  The knee loop padding should press on the front of your upper shin.  If the knee loop is applying pressure to the inner side or outer side of your leg, it is not centered.   You can center the loop by loosening the knee loop clamp hex bolts and tapping only one side of the knee loop tubing either upward or downward.  This type of adjustment will torque the loop slightly and allow it to be centered over the foot platform.  Re-tighten the hex bolts -- but do not overtighten them as it will stress the plastic housing and cause it to crack.   Also, do not ever bend the knee loop!  There have been documented cases where the knee loop has snapped completely in half as a result.

• EXPLODED DIAGRAMS REFERENCES
  Poweriser / Fly Jumper assembly diagrams

• FACTORY REPLACEMENT PARTS
      Powerskip Website -- Powerskip parts only (Located in Germany).
      GetJumpingStilts.Com -- United States based dealer for PoweriSer, PoweriZer, and Powerskip (Located in Ohio USA).